After several sunny days, it is now raining a little every afternoon. We saw this double rainbow on our way to a dinner party in a beautiful neighborhood in northeast Paris.
p.s. tarts are the new crepes.
Tuesday, March 29, 2005
Monday, March 28, 2005
more from Paris
It's been just more than a week since I arrived in Paris, and I feel like I have been here for months. But yesterday was really the first organized foray into touristy activities. The group trucked it out to Versille for the afternoon, which due to the circumstances is a trip I could have lived without.
Here are the highlights. Easter Sunday (and now Easter Monday) here means that everything, except for cafes and of course Versille, is closed, meaning everyone in Europe had the same idea we had. We waited in line for an hour for 20 euro tickets, waited in line for 15 minutes to pay 50 cents to pee, then waited again for maybe 20 minutes to pay another 4 euro to get on a train to tour the gardens. (Here is where I say the gardens and the rooms of the castle were truly amazing, but being herded through like cattle - seriously shoulder to shoulder - left little time and energy for admiration of the ornate decor and finely groomed hedges.) Had I not been with a hysterical group of girls that enjoys laughing as much as I do (and who now also call it Ver-sucks), I think it would have been a miserable day.
By 8:30 p.m. we were back in Paris eating falafel at a place known to be frequented by Lenny Kravitz. Probably the best meal I have had in Paris (with a beer - not red wine! ah! And I think if I eat one more panini poulet I will turn into one). So Lenny's picture was on the wall, and we considered telling the cute waiters that I was starring in a WB spin-off of Dawson's Creek called Dawson's River so they would pose with me and put my picture on the wall. Not sure if they would have bought that though....
The highlight of the weekend was Lauren (a BFF for those of you reading that don't know her) coming into town for the day. She flew in from a business trip/vacation in Africa on her way to a brief stint in the southern France for a few days before heading back to the 'Ham. She came in early and we spent the day together shopping and laying around laughing and talking. We first hit a flea market and both bought shoes (I think I need a second suitcase for the shoes I have and plan to purchase here) and then on to Rue du Rivoli for the requisite H&M trip (spent way too many euros). We ate crepes and I sent her on her way back to the airport. It was a blast seeing her and it reminded me how badly I wish I lived in the same city as my best friends. And if that city happened to be Paris, that would be pretty awesome.
Now time for more musings on Paris: People here love their dogs more than their children, taking them on trains and in to restaurants. But what they don't do is pick up their poo. Rumor has it a law was passed a few years ago imposing a huge fine for not scooping poo, but the police here feel like it's beneath them to enforce such a law. Therefore, the sidewalks are littered with smeared poo - kind of a hazard. And they play American songs on French radio here, but they don't bleep out words or have clean versions (maybe because they don't have the FCC breathing down their necks or maybe because much fewer people know what they songs are saying). So for example now in the Internet cafe, they are playing a Snoop song complete with offensive language and derogatory terms. (I never knew that song said THAT) Interesting.
And here are a couple things I miss, and will likely continue to miss during the next two and a half months:
1. coffee. I mean not these tiny ass espresso deals that I could dog in one gulp, but an f-ing cup of steaming hot, weak-ass coffee. Seriously folks.
2. being able to understand people when they talk to you. It gets old feeling like an American asshole that doesn't know if the announcer on the train is telling you they found a dirty bomb and must evacuate immediately or just that the next stop is closed for construction.
(I am sure I will think of more later...)
As we enter our last week here, I am making a list of the last few things I want to do (including walking around my neighborhood today to see the Moulin Rouge and some bar where Toulouse-Lautrec used to hang out). And I am thinking of the Medill folks heading to D.C. for the quarter, my friends who just returned from a week in Cuba, and everyone at home and elsewhere having adventures of their own.
Here are the highlights. Easter Sunday (and now Easter Monday) here means that everything, except for cafes and of course Versille, is closed, meaning everyone in Europe had the same idea we had. We waited in line for an hour for 20 euro tickets, waited in line for 15 minutes to pay 50 cents to pee, then waited again for maybe 20 minutes to pay another 4 euro to get on a train to tour the gardens. (Here is where I say the gardens and the rooms of the castle were truly amazing, but being herded through like cattle - seriously shoulder to shoulder - left little time and energy for admiration of the ornate decor and finely groomed hedges.) Had I not been with a hysterical group of girls that enjoys laughing as much as I do (and who now also call it Ver-sucks), I think it would have been a miserable day.
By 8:30 p.m. we were back in Paris eating falafel at a place known to be frequented by Lenny Kravitz. Probably the best meal I have had in Paris (with a beer - not red wine! ah! And I think if I eat one more panini poulet I will turn into one). So Lenny's picture was on the wall, and we considered telling the cute waiters that I was starring in a WB spin-off of Dawson's Creek called Dawson's River so they would pose with me and put my picture on the wall. Not sure if they would have bought that though....
The highlight of the weekend was Lauren (a BFF for those of you reading that don't know her) coming into town for the day. She flew in from a business trip/vacation in Africa on her way to a brief stint in the southern France for a few days before heading back to the 'Ham. She came in early and we spent the day together shopping and laying around laughing and talking. We first hit a flea market and both bought shoes (I think I need a second suitcase for the shoes I have and plan to purchase here) and then on to Rue du Rivoli for the requisite H&M trip (spent way too many euros). We ate crepes and I sent her on her way back to the airport. It was a blast seeing her and it reminded me how badly I wish I lived in the same city as my best friends. And if that city happened to be Paris, that would be pretty awesome.
Now time for more musings on Paris: People here love their dogs more than their children, taking them on trains and in to restaurants. But what they don't do is pick up their poo. Rumor has it a law was passed a few years ago imposing a huge fine for not scooping poo, but the police here feel like it's beneath them to enforce such a law. Therefore, the sidewalks are littered with smeared poo - kind of a hazard. And they play American songs on French radio here, but they don't bleep out words or have clean versions (maybe because they don't have the FCC breathing down their necks or maybe because much fewer people know what they songs are saying). So for example now in the Internet cafe, they are playing a Snoop song complete with offensive language and derogatory terms. (I never knew that song said THAT) Interesting.
And here are a couple things I miss, and will likely continue to miss during the next two and a half months:
1. coffee. I mean not these tiny ass espresso deals that I could dog in one gulp, but an f-ing cup of steaming hot, weak-ass coffee. Seriously folks.
2. being able to understand people when they talk to you. It gets old feeling like an American asshole that doesn't know if the announcer on the train is telling you they found a dirty bomb and must evacuate immediately or just that the next stop is closed for construction.
(I am sure I will think of more later...)
As we enter our last week here, I am making a list of the last few things I want to do (including walking around my neighborhood today to see the Moulin Rouge and some bar where Toulouse-Lautrec used to hang out). And I am thinking of the Medill folks heading to D.C. for the quarter, my friends who just returned from a week in Cuba, and everyone at home and elsewhere having adventures of their own.
Thursday, March 24, 2005
a photo
here's a picture of me in front of the eiffel tower. oooh la la.
note: I am planning to post more pictures after I can get the whole converter/adapter computer thing worked out so I can access more photos from my computer.
note: I am planning to post more pictures after I can get the whole converter/adapter computer thing worked out so I can access more photos from my computer.
a few thoughts on Franco-American relations
As I was preparing for my trip to Paris, part of me wondered how I would be received as an American - and one that does not speak French, no less. Anti-American sentiment is rampant across the world, and Franco-American relations are somewhat bruised these days. And of course, you always hear about how the French are so rude.
That could not be farther from the truth, at least in my experiences so far. First of all, the people I have interacted with have been so kind and patient with us as we trudge through basic French, no doubt making complete asses out of ourselves. I still feel like a supreme jerk not speaking the language, but I am trying and I think they understand and appreciate the effort.
Further, it seems there is much more anti-French sentiment in the States than French hatred toward Americans. (Anyone remember the Freedom Fries debacle? I was living at D.C. during the replace-everything-French-with-the-word-'freedom' trend, and I recall the cafeteria in the Capitol building renaming the side dish to eliminate references to the French.)
This morning, we heard from CNN foreign correspondent Jim Bitterman who made the point that if Americans did and said those things against a minority group in the U.S. that they were against the French, there would be riots. It would be unheard of. But treating the French like that was somehow OK.
But fixing the relationship between the two isn't just up to the Americans, of course. The former French foreign minister Hubert Vedrine, who we heard speak last night, explained that while the US must improve its approach to allies and better manage its power, Europeans have to figure out what they want out of the relationship too. With no clear geographic boundaries or historical definition, Europeans are suffering from something of an identity crisis, not knowing just where they want to be. They want US protection, but they want to protest against the US - this all according to Vedrine. What there did seem to be consensus on among Vedrine and most of the audience was that the Bush administration isn't doing much to bridge the divide, and it will likely take time and new president to make any significant changes. (ah... remember the days of Madeline Albright...)
OK, here are a few more observations on the two cultures:
I do think Americans are loud. Myself included. As seen in the elevator coming up from the Metro last night when myself and three other Medill women were carrying on what we thought was a completely normal - albeit extremely jovial - exchange, only to realize everyone was looking at us, silent. Oops. Then a young French woman said to me, smiling, "It's OK, you can talk. They aren't, but it's OK. Maybe they are sad... or tired." Needless to say, we were mortified. Then carried on laughing so hard I was crying.
I have not seen as much cell phone use among French people just strolling down the street as with Americans. Perhaps that is because they take three hour lunches and have plenty of time to chat then.
Parisians take their time. A noon reception might get going at 12:45 p.m. A 10 a.m. meeting may or may not happen. You'll get your check at the restaurant when the waiter is ready. It can be a little frustrating for someone as high strung as myself, but I am starting to appreciate it.
Sorry I was long-winded here. But I love the comments and I look forward to updates from all of you!
That could not be farther from the truth, at least in my experiences so far. First of all, the people I have interacted with have been so kind and patient with us as we trudge through basic French, no doubt making complete asses out of ourselves. I still feel like a supreme jerk not speaking the language, but I am trying and I think they understand and appreciate the effort.
Further, it seems there is much more anti-French sentiment in the States than French hatred toward Americans. (Anyone remember the Freedom Fries debacle? I was living at D.C. during the replace-everything-French-with-the-word-'freedom' trend, and I recall the cafeteria in the Capitol building renaming the side dish to eliminate references to the French.)
This morning, we heard from CNN foreign correspondent Jim Bitterman who made the point that if Americans did and said those things against a minority group in the U.S. that they were against the French, there would be riots. It would be unheard of. But treating the French like that was somehow OK.
But fixing the relationship between the two isn't just up to the Americans, of course. The former French foreign minister Hubert Vedrine, who we heard speak last night, explained that while the US must improve its approach to allies and better manage its power, Europeans have to figure out what they want out of the relationship too. With no clear geographic boundaries or historical definition, Europeans are suffering from something of an identity crisis, not knowing just where they want to be. They want US protection, but they want to protest against the US - this all according to Vedrine. What there did seem to be consensus on among Vedrine and most of the audience was that the Bush administration isn't doing much to bridge the divide, and it will likely take time and new president to make any significant changes. (ah... remember the days of Madeline Albright...)
OK, here are a few more observations on the two cultures:
I do think Americans are loud. Myself included. As seen in the elevator coming up from the Metro last night when myself and three other Medill women were carrying on what we thought was a completely normal - albeit extremely jovial - exchange, only to realize everyone was looking at us, silent. Oops. Then a young French woman said to me, smiling, "It's OK, you can talk. They aren't, but it's OK. Maybe they are sad... or tired." Needless to say, we were mortified. Then carried on laughing so hard I was crying.
I have not seen as much cell phone use among French people just strolling down the street as with Americans. Perhaps that is because they take three hour lunches and have plenty of time to chat then.
Parisians take their time. A noon reception might get going at 12:45 p.m. A 10 a.m. meeting may or may not happen. You'll get your check at the restaurant when the waiter is ready. It can be a little frustrating for someone as high strung as myself, but I am starting to appreciate it.
Sorry I was long-winded here. But I love the comments and I look forward to updates from all of you!
Tuesday, March 22, 2005
Paris rules
First of all, I must discuss the crepes. There are crepe stands at almost every corner and I have not stopped thinking about the one I had yesterday that was Nutella and banana. That alone would make a girl want to stay here for good. I am saying, it was amazing. Pretty much like the best thing I have ever eaten. The entire group of Medill girls (really, it is all women except one poor guy, Chuck, who wasn't having it with us) stopped on the street for these crepes and have not stopped talking about them.
More on food: the bread is equally jaw-dropping and you eat it with every meal. My only real beef (besides not really knowing French to read the menus and just guessing most of the time) is the coffee. Tiny cups of espresso aren't going to cut it. But... like the American jerks we are, we found a Starbucks and paid an obscene amount of money for coffee. Worth it. (yeah yeah it's my first time in Paris)
Really, Paris is gorgeous. We have been on a boat ride on the Siene, walked around near the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower, ate crepes....
Other interesting item to note of Paris: people really do make out all over this city. Not in a gross, drunken bar-makeout way but in the romantic, beautiful-people-being-beautiful kind of way. At cafes, along the Seine, on the street. It's actually quite nice.
Seriously though, it helps to have the other Medill folks around who are facing the same unknown daunting task of soon being in another country to report and live. (We will be doing some reporting here, but not too extensive). We are all a little anxious and excited. The other folks are headed to places like Buenos Aires, Sydney, the Hague, Hong Kong. I still can't believe I am doing this.
I also managed to blow out the converter for my computer (wrong wattage I think) so once I can buy a new one, I can upload some pictures to this lovely little blog!
More on food: the bread is equally jaw-dropping and you eat it with every meal. My only real beef (besides not really knowing French to read the menus and just guessing most of the time) is the coffee. Tiny cups of espresso aren't going to cut it. But... like the American jerks we are, we found a Starbucks and paid an obscene amount of money for coffee. Worth it. (yeah yeah it's my first time in Paris)
Really, Paris is gorgeous. We have been on a boat ride on the Siene, walked around near the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower, ate crepes....
Other interesting item to note of Paris: people really do make out all over this city. Not in a gross, drunken bar-makeout way but in the romantic, beautiful-people-being-beautiful kind of way. At cafes, along the Seine, on the street. It's actually quite nice.
Seriously though, it helps to have the other Medill folks around who are facing the same unknown daunting task of soon being in another country to report and live. (We will be doing some reporting here, but not too extensive). We are all a little anxious and excited. The other folks are headed to places like Buenos Aires, Sydney, the Hague, Hong Kong. I still can't believe I am doing this.
I also managed to blow out the converter for my computer (wrong wattage I think) so once I can buy a new one, I can upload some pictures to this lovely little blog!
Sunday, March 20, 2005
bonjour!
So I made it to Paris without much of a hitch. I flew to Munich first with, among others, the entire Northwestern University's mens soccer team. Some are thinking oooh, niiice, but really it meant a bunch of rowdy guys stoked to be getting free Becks for 8 hours. I did manage to get some sleep and rolled into Paris about 1 p.m.
The apartment where I am staying with two other Medill girls, whom arrive this morning and I have yet to meet, is a tiny 7th floor studio in Montmarte. The building is strangely tucked between fabric stores - which line the streets - and has a stunning view from the windows of an enormous cathedral Sacre Coure. I haven't explored much yet, but so far, Paris is gorgeous. The streets are small and winding and chaotic and the buildings are ornate and humbling.
Last night I met up with another Medillian who was here on her spring break after being in DC last quarter. She was here for a friend's b'day party, and I tagged along, but this party was unlike any one I had ever been to before. It was in the museaum of crystal maker Baccarat where we sipped champagne as we were surrounded by artwork and amazing crystal. It was a formal dinner in a high-ceiling room with guilded wall and painted ceiling. (and I wore a dress!) We started with fois gras, and I went against ever fiber of my being knowing what it is and tried it and wasn't really into it. The rest of the meal was great - fish with asparagus and caviar, lamb, chocolate souffle. I sat there thinking - who am I? Am I really in Paris dining at a damn crystal museum? The guests were so nice and from all over the world, most having flown into Paris for the weekend for this party. Pretty amazing. I skipped out on the boat ride with drinks and dancing till 3 a.m. and came home to catch up on some sleep. And of course, it was great seeing Elisabeth again and so nice to see a familiar face.
I must say that I wish I left with a little more French under my belt. You know, basics like "I don't speak much french" and "How much is it?" I feel like kind of a jerk but am doing my best to read up on some phrases. It's pretty overwhelming and humbling not being able to communicate with anyone.
Now I am off to explore and make my way to the base of the Eiffel Tower where I am meeting the rest of the global folks. Au revior!
The apartment where I am staying with two other Medill girls, whom arrive this morning and I have yet to meet, is a tiny 7th floor studio in Montmarte. The building is strangely tucked between fabric stores - which line the streets - and has a stunning view from the windows of an enormous cathedral Sacre Coure. I haven't explored much yet, but so far, Paris is gorgeous. The streets are small and winding and chaotic and the buildings are ornate and humbling.
Last night I met up with another Medillian who was here on her spring break after being in DC last quarter. She was here for a friend's b'day party, and I tagged along, but this party was unlike any one I had ever been to before. It was in the museaum of crystal maker Baccarat where we sipped champagne as we were surrounded by artwork and amazing crystal. It was a formal dinner in a high-ceiling room with guilded wall and painted ceiling. (and I wore a dress!) We started with fois gras, and I went against ever fiber of my being knowing what it is and tried it and wasn't really into it. The rest of the meal was great - fish with asparagus and caviar, lamb, chocolate souffle. I sat there thinking - who am I? Am I really in Paris dining at a damn crystal museum? The guests were so nice and from all over the world, most having flown into Paris for the weekend for this party. Pretty amazing. I skipped out on the boat ride with drinks and dancing till 3 a.m. and came home to catch up on some sleep. And of course, it was great seeing Elisabeth again and so nice to see a familiar face.
I must say that I wish I left with a little more French under my belt. You know, basics like "I don't speak much french" and "How much is it?" I feel like kind of a jerk but am doing my best to read up on some phrases. It's pretty overwhelming and humbling not being able to communicate with anyone.
Now I am off to explore and make my way to the base of the Eiffel Tower where I am meeting the rest of the global folks. Au revior!
Thursday, March 17, 2005
welcome to my blog
Hi there. Clearly I am new to this whole blog thing so bear with me. I wanted to be able to document my trip abroad - first to Paris then to Prague - to keep everyone updated and avoid the mess of sending out mass emails from time to time. Enjoy!
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